A market economy thrives in Bangkok - thestar.com

A market economy thrives in Bangkok - thestar.com
BANGKOK — Shopping at Bangkok’s seemingly endless lists of markets is as much a part of the country’s DNA as spicy tom yum goong soup and the white sand beaches of its southern islands. Residents of Thailand’s capital take to the activity with a tenacity that makes you wonder whether it should be named the country’s official sport. From bulk buys of Hello Kitty nail clippers in Chinatown to near-perfect duplications of famous art on Silom, Bangkok’s markets are everywhere, and offer a variety of goods that will impress even the most jaded shopper.

The granddaddy of this vibrant shopping scene is the 35-acre Chatuchak Weekend Market (On Nut BTS; Chatuchak MRT), which dates to the mid-1900s. Located in Bangkok’s northern Chatuchak district, the open-air expanse of stalls is legendary; indeed, when someone says, “Have you been to the weekend market yet?” there’s no need to ask which one they mean. Chatuchak is only a skeleton of itself during the week, but it comes alive on weekends with bustling masses eager to make that one great find, be it a funny T-shirt or an antique doorknob.

Chatuchak’s energy comes from the roughly 200,000 shoppers that walk through its gates every Saturday and Sunday. Kilometres of compact aisles (called sois in Thai) zig and zag through a dizzying variety of goods as shoppers search for animals, furniture, clothes, art, food, plants and even weapons (bring home a few throwing stars for Mom!). Scattered food stalls whip up $2 bowls of mouth-watering noodles that would cost four times as much in Canada, while wandering vendors offer freshly made coconut ice cream out of a freshly made coconut bowl.

For a shopping experience that’s the exact opposite of Chatuchak, head over to Suan Lum Night Bazaar (corner of Rama IV and Wireless Roads). In fact, do this before you do anything else, because it might not be around for much longer. The comparatively quiet market is slowly closing up one vendor at a time because of a lengthy battle that will eventually see it completely shuttered (this was supposed to happen in 2006), although many vendors still remain. Busy but not packed, it sells everything from boutique furniture to jewelry to Indian incense and is clean and well-lit.

To make a night of it, head a few blocks west to Silom Road where the infamous Pat Pong Night Market spills out of Soi Pat Pong onto Silom for several blocks on either side. Though mostly crammed with tourist tchotchkes and dodgy tuk-tuk drivers, the atmosphere is certainly never boring, and it’s a great place to pick up souvenirs for friends.

To sample a more local market where few tourists ever go, visit the Saphan Phut Night Market (Saphan Phut Road, under the Memorial Bridge), where all manner of new and used clothes, crafts, furnishings, art and general knick-knacks can be found at great prices. Many of the goods here are brought in from the slightly, er, grungier Thai/Cambodian border markets, so you’ll likely run into a few unique finds.

Just around the corner (Chakphet Road) you’ll find yet another market, but one that’s unlike any other in Bangkok. This is Pak Klong Talat, the flower market. You’ll likely be able to smell it before you see it. For three blocks on either side of the road, colours and activity leap out of every space as vendors run to and fro carrying huge sacks of flowers of all sizes and types: chrysanthemums, roses, daisies, orchids, haleconias and dozens more you won’t recognize.

The market is busiest from 11 p.m to 6 a.m, when trucks and boats from farms in surrounding provinces bring huge shipments of flowers into Bangkok for local vendors to buy wholesale. Prices for the public aren’t too bad either — a newspaper-wrapped bundle of 24 roses will set you back about 60 baht ($2), and orchids — much prized and valued in colder climates like Canada — sell for 30 baht ($1) a bunch.

There are many more markets to see, but try these on for size first to get a good idea of what’s available. And remember: bargain hard, but be nice — vendors have to eat too.

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